I packed my bags and set out on a journey, alone, not knowing much about the land I was headed to. Doing some research online and zooming into Google maps was the much done effort. From Bombay I took the Duronto express to Indore, a clean over-night train. I was freaked out by a lot of people though about the stretch that Bagh - Jhabua is. They tried their best to convince me not to travel alone to these areas, being a girl. Eventually, I did. A friend's friend came along too.
From Indore, it was a decent ride to Bagh. In a taxi of course. Took us quite some time. Four point five hours precisely. Half the journey was a smooth drive on an expressway, quite bump-free and silent. The second half, on the contrary, was a single lane drive - interesting for the sight of the landscape that it offered. Mostly brown. And against a pretty much monotone background were men wearing bright colorful turbans and white dhotis riding bullock carts, women with matkas of water on their heads and their oh-that-thumka-while-they-walk, animals that were being extremely suicidal (popping in front of our car every now and then) and of course some other cars that were on their way to the same place as us.
Reaching Bagh left me quite surprised actually. I imagined it to be more raw and village like. But that is that. We headed straight to the karkhaana where block printing was happening and the manager of the adda started showing us around without wasting any time. Bunty, as he is called, took us through the river, without the fish pedicure, to see where the printed fabrics were being washed. Got a feel of the village in the first ten minutes itself. On our way back to the adda, we grabbed some chips and cold-drinks (bigde junky shaheri bachhe I guess)! Then began the hunt for the loo and we figured that there was no public toilet in Bagh. The only one there was was broken down recently. Loitering around, lost, we kept asking people where we could find a toilet we could use. Reminded me of my recent trip to Leh which made me experience some of the worst toilets ever. Anyhow, some kind soul asked us if we needed anything and we immediately answered back - Washroom! So we used the loo in his house and thanked him enough.
Two days in Bagh passed by in a jiffy - kept talking to the printers and clicking pictures of them. Second day, particularly, marked a sumptuous lunch at Bunty's house. His wife made a meal less spicy specially for us. Having had that, we went straight for shopping. Bags full of Bagh printed sarees and dupattas, we set out for our next destination - Jobat, where another very helpful worker of the Hast Shilp Vikas Nigam, Mr. Khan, was waiting for us.
He made us meet this really stunning lady who has been doing bead-work for ages. She's really very old and can still thread a needle in low light without wearing a chashma. Astounding! Her daughter-in-law, Jeevan Bala, has been involved in the same craft and is associated with the NIFT cluster program as well. They make absolutely stunning pieces, some subtle, some loud. I bought some to wear myself and some to gift. Am running low on cash already, having shopped in Indore, Bagh and Jobat. I would definitely have to visit an ATM early tomorrow morning, before we see more of Jobat and head to Jhabua.
Right now, we are in this really shady (but clean) hotel called Mangalam where no one else is staying. Infact, the receptionist had to call and ask the manager if he could let 'only girls' take up a room. Some weird hotel policy. Somehow, he agreed and let us have it. It almost feels like a hotel-arrest. All the people we have spoken to today have advised us not to step out after sunset. Thankfully I have the net dongle and a laptop. It feels nice to be connected with the world virtually when you don't have any real connections. Looking forward to tomorrow to witness some more of the lands less seen.

